In any weather

Darina Allen on her love of picnics all year round

Eating outdoors through the four seasons is one of my greatest delights. I am a serial picnicker – my picnic baskets are always packed and ready to go. One picnic basket has cheap frying pans, tongs, an egg slice, a bottle of sunflower oil, kindling, firelighters, newspapers and matches. This is my kit for breakfast picnics – delicious in the Comeraghs or Knockmealdowns or by a little sandy cove on the coast.

We bake a few loaves of soda bread and spotted dog, grab the basket of assorted jam and honey, and squeeze some citrus fruit for fresh juice. We pack the hurricane kettle and fill some flasks of boiling hot water in case the wind is blowing in the wrong direction.

When we reach our chosen site, preferably overlooking the sea, a lake or a gurgling brook, we make several stone circles to enclose our fires, the children gather extra driftwood or "cipins" and we get to work. Nothing smells so good or tastes so irresistible when cooked outdoors as rashers and freshly-laid eggs, sizzling sausages and fine, flat mushrooms.

Our picnics are usually simple. I rarely make fancy terrines or quiches. A frittata is certainly worth considering, but more often its just a piece of freshly boiled bacon or a simple roast chicken or duck. A few relishes and pickles, a bowl of freshly boiled shrimps, some homemade mayonnaise, a crisp cucumber and some ripe tomatoes are a must.

Spotted Dog

450g (1lb) plain white flour, preferably unbleached; 1 level teaspoon salt; 1 level teaspoon bread soda (finely sieved); 1 dessertspoon sugar; 85-110g (3-4oz) sultanas; 1 free range egg (the egg is part of the liquid measurement); 425ml (14floz) approx. butter milk

Preheat your oven to 220C/425F/gas 7. In a large mixing bowl, sieve in the flour and bread soda, add the salt, sugar and fruit. Mix well with your fingers. Make a well in the centre of the flour. Break the egg into the bottom of the measuring jug, add the buttermilk to the 425ml / 14floz line (the egg is part of the liquid measurement). Pour most of this milk and egg into the flour. Using one hand, with the fingers open and stiff, mix in a full circle drawing in the flour from the sides of the bowl, adding more milk if necessary. The dough should be softish, not too wet and sticky. With floured fingers, roll lightly for a few seconds. Pat the dough into a round, pressing to about 6cm (2inch) in height. Place the dough on to a floured baking tray. With a sharp knife, cut a deep cross on it, let the cuts go over the sides of the bread. Prick with knife at the four triangles to let the fairies out! Put in to the preheated oven for 5 minutes, then turn down the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6, for 35 minutes or until cooked. Serve freshly baked, cut into thick slices and smeared with butter and jam.