Slowing it down, Italian style

Darina Allen on the Slow Food movement, where long family meals and artisan products are sacred

Every time I go to Italy, I am struck by the number of houses that still have gardens with vegetables, fruit trees, a vine or two and often a few hens – not just in the country but also in towns and cities. Flowers seem far less important than a few bean rows, some tomato vines, a couple of zucchini plants and of course some basil.

Many "contadini" still rear a few rabbits for the table. Despite the creeping insidiousness of fast food and the multiples, Italy is clinging on to its traditional food culture in a way that few other European countries are managing to do. This is partly because of the influence of the Slow Food Movement, which has highlighted the importance of artisan production, bio-diversity and sustainability, not only to our quality of life but to the overall economics of the country.

In just 17 short years, Slow Food has spread all over the globe with 83,000 members in 107 countries. There are 11 convivia in Ireland and more being set up, so if the idea appeals to you check out www.slowfoodireland.com. Link up with like-minded people for lots of convivial events around the country.

At a recent Slow Food council meeting in Pollenzo, close to Turin in Northern Italy, we had dinner in the cellar of a local winery. We ate four courses of beef served in different ways, starting with carne crudo; then brawn made from the tongue and head; several salami and then the piece de résistance, the Bollito Misto, which was wheeled in, in a huge cooking pot. Everyone cheered, the local butcher carved and we tucked into this noble dish. A truly convivial meal and a noble end for a fine Piedmontese ox that had been reared with love.

Courgettes or Zucchini with Marjoram

Serves 4

I'm hooked on annual marjoram. The seed is sometimes difficult to find because it can be called Sweet marjoram or Knotty marjoram, but if you have any little patch at home it's worth growing yourself – it turns so many dishes into a feast.

1 lb (450 g) green or golden courgettes or a mixture of the two, no more than 6 inches (15 cm) in length

1-2 tablespoons approx. olive oil

1-2 teaspoon chopped annual marjoram or basil

Top and tail the courgettes and cut them into scant 1/4 inch (5 mm) slices. Heat the oil, toss in the courgettes and coat in the olive oil. Cook on a medium heat until just tender – 4-5 minutes approx. Add the marjoram or basil. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Turn into a hot dish and serve immediately.