Get it while it's hot (or cold)!

The wild Irish salmon season is upon us. Darina Allen advises on how to recognise the best fish, and what to do when we get them home

The wild Irish salmon season has just opened, so for a few short weeks we will be able to enjoy what is fast becoming a rare treat. The season for drift net fishing opens on 1 June and finishes at the end of July. For draft net fishing, it runs from 12 May to the end of July. There are restrictions on the number of days in the week when fishing can take place, and no weekend fishing is permitted. The flesh of wild salmon varies in colour depending on whether it comes from the river or the sea. If the fish are feeding on shrimp, the flesh will be a richer "salmon" colour. Few wild salmon are as vibrant in colour as the farmed fish, where the hue can be pre-determined by adding artificial colour to the feed. When you buy a salmon, choose a spanking fresh fish that looks stiff and shiny. Wild Irish salmon will be clearly tagged so they are easy to identify. A red tag indicates that the fish has been caught in a drift net, a green tag means a traditional draft net has been used (my preference), and a blue tag means the fish has been caught by an angler. It is illegal to sell these blue tagged fish, they should not be available in the market place. From the cook or chef's point of view, salmon is a wonderfully versatile fish and is delicious served raw, poached, pan-grilled, or fried. Steaming gives the least flavour unless the liquid is well infused with seasoning and herbs. If you really want to show off, it can also be enrobed in a flaky, puff or filo pastry, but it takes a skilled cook to ensure the fish is perfectly cooked. I prefer it simply cooked and served with a fresh herb butter or a little hollandaise sauce made with rich Irish butter.

Recipe
SEARED WILD IRISH SALMON with vine ripened tomato and herbs Takes just minutes to cook this little feast. Serves eight 900g (2lb) fillet of wild Irish salmon, scales removed Salt and freshly ground pepper Extra virgin olive oil or clarified butter 8 very ripe tomatoes, coarsely chopped Salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar 4 tablespoons freshly chopped basil, marjoram and mint 150ml (5fl oz) extra virgin olive oil (approximately) Cut the salmon fillet into strips 6.5cm (21/2 inch) wide approximately. Season well with salt and freshly ground pepper. Fry or pan grill carefully in a little olive oil or clarified butter. Meanwhile, mix the tomato dice with the freshly chopped herbs, season with salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar, add the olive oil. Taste and correct the seasoning. When the fish is just cooked transfer to a serving dish, skin side up. Spoon the tomato and herbs over the fish. Serve warm or cold.