Rhubarb is back

Curative as well as tasty, rhubarb has come far from the stewed mush we remember from childhood; it is now being toasted by celebrity chefs. Darina Allen tells us its historyThe latest “common or garden” food to be elevated to haute-cuisine is none other than the humble rhubarb stalk. Vegetable soup with cheese and rhubarb croute; champagne and rhubarb sorbet; pan-fried duck breast with honey and rhubarb glaze; parsnip and rhubarb mash; salmon poached in olive oil with raw rhubarb, cucumber and mint salad; topped off with delicious rhubarb crumble – they're all a far cry from the stewed rhubarb and lumpy custard of our school days.

I'm a huge fan of rhubarb – the young pink spears of new season's rhubarb are a great joy when they appear in the shops at the end of January every year – a cause for delight and celebration. 

Rhubarb originates from the banks of the Volga. It was transported down the Old Silk Road to China, where its use in medicine was recorded as far back as 2700BC. Marco Polo first brought it to Europe, and it arrived in these islands in the 18th century.
It was used in Britain to treat stomach, colon and liver illnesses, but is now promoted as a way to lower cholesterol. Its ability to raise calcium levels makes it a good treatment for brittle-bone disease.

Surprisingly, rhubarb is a vegetable, not a fruit – it is the plant name for 70-odd species of the rheum family. The tastiness of “forced” indoor rhubarb is said to have been discovered by a Chelsea gardener who accidentally left a chimney pot over rhubarb, back in the early 19th century.

A popular rhubarb festival is held in Wakefield in the UK every year. This cultural event, now in its seventh year, was initiated to glean support for the Rhubarb Triangle between Leeds, Bradford and Wakefield that once supported 190 growers. It has been a success beyond their wildest dreams – several hot chefs have rediscovered rhubarb and are having fun pairing it with both sweet and savoury dishes.

We've been enjoying rhubarb sauce with roast pork for years and its clean, fresh, bittersweet taste also works well with fish – particularly oily fish like mackerel. Chef Rick Stein did wonders for the sale of rhubarb when he chose Oldroyds and Sons as one of his Food Heroes in his television series – demand doubled when he pronounced rhubarb crumble as “the best pudding in the world”.
British rhubarb grower Janet Oldroyd Hulme is delighted that rhubarb seems to be back in fashion – for generations her family have been growing the vegetable on the sulphurous soils of Yorkshire, which are particularly suited to the Siberian plant. The more delicate-flavoured varieties are “forced” for the early market in a constant temperature of 13ºC by the light of candles and a couple of 40 watt bulbs. Until the 1960s, British Rail ran a “Rhubarb Special” that transported the produce from Yorkshire to Covent Garden. Rhubarb production was symbiotic with other industries in the area – waste combings from the wool industry known as “shoddy” provided nitrogen rich fertiliser; coal from local pits heated the forcing sheds. When the mines and factories started to close, the growers were dealt a near mortal blow by competition from air-freighted tropical fruit.

However, with the renewed passion for rhubarb – both from the culinary and medicinal point of view – the future looks infinitely more rosy.

The medical value of rhubarb is just as important as its gastronomic qualities and a valuable insurance policy against the vagaries of haute cuisine. According to Olroyd Hulme, “They're finding more and more medicinal uses for rhubarb. It has a massive amount of calcium and also has the ability to lower cholesterol levels.” In that case its future seems assured.

Roscommon rhubarb pie

This delectable tart is an adaptation of a traditional recipe which was originally cooked in a bastable over the open fire – everyone adores it. One could also add a couple of teaspoons of freshly grated ginger to the rhubarb, but try it unadorned at first – it's seriously good. Serves 8-10

› 2 lbs (900g) red rhubarb; 9-10 ozs (255-285g) granulated sugar

› Topping – 11 ozs (310 g) flour; 3⁄4 oz (20g) castor sugar; 1 heaped teaspoon baking powder; Pinch of salt; 2 ozs (55 g) butter; 1 egg; 6 fl ozs (175 ml) full cream milk, approx; Egg wash; Granulated sugar. 

› 9 x 2 inch (23 x 5 cm) round tin. We use a heavy stainless steel sauté pan – if you don't have a suitable pan, par cook the rhubarb slightly first.

› Preheat the oven to 230ºC/450ºF/regulo 8

Trim the rhubarb, wipe with a damp cloth and cut into pieces about one inch (2.5 cm) in length.  Put into the base of a tin or sauté pan, sprinkle with the sugar. Put the stainless steel sauté pan on a low heat at this point while you make the dough.

Sieve all the dry ingredients into a bowl. Cut the butter into cubes and rub into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Whisk the egg with the milk. Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients, pour in the liquid all at once and mix to a soft dough. Turn out onto a floured board and roll into a 9 inch (23 cm) round about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick. Place this round on top of the rhubarb and tuck in the edges neatly. Brush with a little egg wash and sprinkle with granulated sugar. 

Bake in the fully preheated oven for five minutes, then reduce the temperature to 180ºC/350ºF/regulo 4 for a further 35 minutes or until the top is crusty and golden and the rhubarb soft and juicy. Remove from the oven and allow to sit for a few minutes. Put a warm plate over the top of the sauté pan, turn upside down onto the plate.

Serve warm with soft brown sugar and cream.