Food: Culture stock

A recent walk around Dublin's Moore Street only offered up some of its darker mysteries. Gone are the antique Silver Cross prams and with them cries of 'two for a pound.' Instead, metal-framed box stands display the usual fruit and vegetables. I happily filled a full green bag with carrots, broccoli, apples and bananas for only €5, a tiny fraction of what the same would have cost in any supermarket.

A large FX Buckley's butchers stands opposite an equally packed Jimmy Cousin's, both filled with regular and more interesting cuts of meat – like cow's heart and tongue. The street hums with a mixture of craggy Irish weather-worn street traders and a more recent exotic element, creating a chaotic palette of colour and vibrancy.

We found ourselves entering some unusual African/Caribbean superstores, displaying enormous selections of specialized wigs and hair products. Deeper into these stores you will find a medley of unusual merchandise, so familiarising oneself by consulting cookery books before your visit may be wise. An assortment of food was on offer in this uncertain paradise from various flours like yam, cocoyam and fufu flour to frozen gizzards or lungs (fuka), snout and Joyce's favourite kidneys. Fish such as Titus, Tilapia, and Croakers dried, salted or whole and frozen, swelled the refrigerators. I bought some sweet potatoes, and a large Mackerel.

As I moseyed on down the road a pair of seriously funky men's shoes caught my eye in a clothes shop. The clothes on offer were definitely not marketed to the more conservative Irish male shopper and amid a lot of 'bling, bling' jewellery I spotted some colourful street wear and those 'pimp' style shoes which set me back one hundred bucks.

Feeling a little tired and hungry after my adventurous purchases, we ventured into this little Chinese restaurant lodged between two superstores. The outside is adorned with brilliant lanterns, and we thought it was a good sign that the place was full of local Chinese people. Of course, this posed its own problems as neither our disgruntled waitress nor any of the kitchen staff had a word of English. It was left to a kind fellow diner to leave her own meal and come over to explain to them and us why the spicy deep fried pigs' intestines were neither spicy nor deep-fried! We then watched her moving off to another table to explain the menu. (They should have offered her a job.)

If you feel like a culture shock, and are too broke to get on a plane, head straight down to Moore Street and brave the superstores! Check out the cow's lungs and pigs' ears. Nigella loves them fried in butter, a little scary but tasty I am sure!

(Makes 3 Pints of Soup)

Liberian soups are unlike most soup dishes and are often a combination of meats, fish, and vegetables ultimately combined in one pot. With less water they may be served as main dishes. Other vegetables such as okra and string beans may be added. If you do use the dried codfish, make sure to soak overnight in water and do not add any extra salt to dish.

Combine: 1 Ib. stewing beef cut in 1/2-inch dice

1/2 lb. tripe cut in small pieces (optional)

1x6oz. cans tomato paste

1 tbs. salt

1 tsp. coarse red pepper

1 tsp. black pepper

1/2 Ib. fresh tomatoes cut in 1/2-inch squares

2 Pints water

Simmer for one hour or until meat is tender.

Combine: 1/2 Ib. onions, thinly sliced

1/2 Ib. dried codfish, cut in small pieces, in 2 pints water.

Simmer until fish is tender.

Combine fish and meat and simmer slowly for 20 minutes. De-bone 1 large smoked fish (herring, mackerel, whitefish, etc.). Add to soup and cook 10 minutes longer. Correct the Seasonings to your taste. Serve with rice.