The joy of the fair

As a child living in a country village, the local agricultural show was one of the highlights of the summer. My friends and I planned what to enter for competition – fairy cakes, maybe a few butterfly buns, a coffee sponge, soda bread, a few ducks eggs, summer fruit and vegetables.

Samples of knitting, crochet and embroidery were also contenders. I once entered my brown hand-knitted socks in Rathdowney agricultural show. Miss Carroll had shown me how to "turn the heel" in the national school in Cullohill. They won first prize. I never won anything before or since that meant as much to me!

Sadly, the popularity of these agricultural shows has dwindled over the past few years, as they tried to compete with the myriad food festivals springing up all over the country. But lately, in tandem with the growing demand for artisan and specialists foods, there is a distinct renewal of interest. Schull agricultural show is a case in point. It was an animal event between 1966 and 1999 and this year, the show committee got together with the local ICA and the Slow Food movement to revive it. They were well-rewarded when over 2,000 people pored through the gates.

Schull farmers' market decamped to the showgrounds for the day. There were 66 classes in eight categories, fine horses and livestock. Over 70 people entered their prize pooch in the dog show. Enthusiastic dancers jigged and reeled under the tutelage of Bertie and Annie Moran to the tradition strains of Sliabh Luachra music. In the field there were demonstrations of the traditional crafts: spinning, fishing nets, rush weaving. Everyone I spoke to, both local and holidaymakers, had a whale of a time.

The agricultural show celebrates everything that is worthwhile in country life.

?More For dates of other sgricultural shows around the county contact show secretary Josephine Ahern on 028 28707 or check ww.irishshowsassociation.ie

Coffee Cake

Serves 8-10

8 ozs (225g) butter; 8 ozs (225g) castor sugar; 8 ozs (225g) white flour, preferably unbleached; 1 teasp baking powder; 4 eggs, preferably free range; scant 2 tablesp coffee essence (Irel or Camp); 2" x 8" (5 x 20.5 cm) sandwich tins; coffee butter cream (see recipe); coffee icing (see recipe). Decoration: hazelnuts or chocolate coffee beans

Preheat the oven to 180ºC/350ºF/regulo 4. Line the bottom of sandwich tins with greaseproof paper, brush the bottom and sides with melted butter and dust with flour. Cream the butter until soft, add the castor sugar and beat until pale and light in texture. Whisk the eggs. Add to the mixture, bit by bit, beating well between each addition. Sieve the flour with the baking powder and stir gently into the cake mixture, finally add in the coffee essence and mix thoroughly. Spoon the mixture into the prepared sandwich tins and bake for 30 minutes approx in a preheated moderate oven. When the cakes are cooked, the centre will be firm and springy and the edges will have shrunk in slightly from the sides of the tin. When cold, sandwich the cakes together with coffee butter cream and ice the top with coffee icing. Decorate with hazelnuts or chocolate coffee beans

Coffee Butter Cream Filling: 2 ozs (55g) butter; 4 ozs (110g) icing sugar (sieved); 1-2 teasp. Irel Coffee essence. Whisk the butter with the sieved icing sugar, add the coffee essence. Continue to whisk until light and fluffy.

Coffee Icing: 16 ozs (450g) icing sugar; scant 2 tablesp. Irel coffee essence; 4 tablesp. boiling water approx. Sieve the icing sugar into a bowl. Add coffee essence and enough boiling water to make it the consistency of thick cream.