The city of highlights

Darina Allen on the consistency of Parisian cuisine, and those who break the rules

One of the great joys of Paris is its consistency. The beloved brasseries and bistros seem to remain exactly the same every time you visit, with same traditional favourites will still be on the menu: celeriac remoulade, salade des gésiers, pot au feu, côtes de boeuf, tarte tatin, tarte citron, profiteroles.

For years, however, it felt as though the chefs were stuck in a time warp. However, a whole new generation of chefs are throwing off the traditional mantle are experimenting. Some are even opting out of the traditional Michelin regime and creating less formal, affordable restaurants.

L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon is on rue de Montalambert in the 7th arrondissement. It is an entirely new concept for Paris, designed by the celebrated Jean Yves Rochon. When you are eventually seated – usually after a long wait since they don't take reservations, you are no more than nine inches away from the diner at either side. On my last visit, I was sitting between two dishy French boys and a DJ from Amsterdam, so we had lots of fun and ended up trading tastes of food.

The waiting staff operate in the centre of the restaurant and the open kitchen is slightly to the rear, so one can get glimpses of the action. There is a menu dégustation of seven courses for a set price, but many people opt for a series of little plates of tempting morsels. Overall, the food was good but not mind-blowing as you would expect for the prices.

L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, 5 rue de Montalembert, 7e, Paris. 01 42225656. Open every day

A croque-monsieur is the quintessential Parisian sandwich. It's really no more than a grilled ham sandwich topped with grated cheese, but it appears in many different guises. Sometimes it is topped with a thick Mornay sauce, or transformed into a croque-madame with the addition of an egg.

Croque monsieur

Ingredients: A dab of butter; 2 thin square slices best quality white bread (pain de mie in France); 1 slice best quality ham, cut to fit bread; 1oz (25g) Gruyère cheese, grated

Preheat the grill. Butter the slices of bread on one side. Place the slice of ham on one buttered side and cover with the other slice of bread. Pop the sandwich under the grill and grill on one side until golden. Remove, turn and cover the uncooked side with the grated cheese. Return to the grill and cook until the cheese is bubbling and golden. Eat immediately while hot. Bon appetit!