Bountiful blackberries

  • 5 October 2005
  • test

You'll need to get out there fast to catch the last of the blackberries. There's something wonderfully so...othing about wandering along a country lane nibbling blackberries from the hedges – this year there is a truly prodigious crop. We had a few terrific blackberry picking expeditions recently and taught our grandchildren and indeed some uninitiated friends how to choose the best berries. I was amazed to discover how many ‘grown-ups' didn't realise that it's prudent to check the berries before you pop them into your mouth. If the core is discoloured rather than pale and unblemished, it usually means that little crawly beasties have got there first, best to discard those. This becomes more of a problem towards the end of the season.
The berries seem particularly sweet and gorgeous this year. They are loaded with vitamin C, fibre and folate and children love them. Kids adore foraging, it's great to encourage them, a few good blackberry feasts will naturally help to build up their resistance to winter colds and flu. Fill a flask and pack a little picnic so you can head off on an expedition after school. Bring lots of plastic or stainless steel containers, best if they are little and light so they aren't too intimidating to fill. Practically speaking if they are too large the ripe berries will get squashed and damaged.
So what to do with all those berries? I adore a fresh blackberry sponge – make a light whisked-up sponge, spoon softly whipped cream, maybe flavoured with a few drops of rose blossom water over the top, scatter generously with fresh berries and sprinkle with a little castor sugar – divine. I sometimes scatter a few rose petals over the top – they look so alluring and taste delicious too, (make sure they haven't had a dose of chemicals).  
If you collect a decent quantity, you'll probably want to make some jam – blackberries are low in pectin, the agent that helps jam to set, so it's a good idea to partner the berries with cooking apples to increase the pectin and cut the sweetness.
The first Irish cooking apples are in the shops – look out for Grenadier or Bramley Seedling and please, please make an effort to buy Irish apples. It's difficult for Irish growers to compete with cheaper imports, and if we don't actively support them there will be no Irish apples to buy – it's as simple as that. Its not just a question of loyalty, they do have a unique flavour.
Back to the blackberries or brambles, if you have a glut, you may also want to preserve some for later. They freeze really well. If you have time and space, its worth ‘tray freezing' so all those little berries stay separate. A few small cartons close to the top of the freezer will come in handy to add to a sauce or gravy to partner a pheasant or a grouse if you are fortunate enough to have one later in the autumn. A fistful of berries folded into a soft colcannon make a delicious accompaniment to a pan-grilled duck breast or a surprising addition to a traditional potato stuffing for a Michaelmas goose.
∏ More: www.cookingisfun.ie

Tags: