Blessed are the cheesemakers

Darina Allen on the history of the Irish cheese industry, and what makes our farmhouse cheddars some of the best in the world

God bless the cheesemakers – Ardrahan, Baylough, Coolea, Durrus, Fermoy, Gabriel, Hegarty's, Lavistown, Milleens, Oisin, St Tola... Nowadays, there is an Irish farmhouse cheese for almost every letter of the alphabet – over 60 in all and probably a few others that I don't even know about.

The lovely Veronica Steele who, along with her husband Norman, makes the now legendary Milleens Cheese on their farm near Allihies on the Beara Peninsula, is considered to be the matriarch of the farmhouse cheese industry. She started to experiment in her kitchen in 1976 when she was faced with the dilemma of what to do with surplus milk from her three cows, a Kerry and two Friesians. The end result was the feisty Milleens we now know and love. The cheesemaking has long since moved out of her kitchen into her Palais de Fromage. The original cheese was about 9 inches in diameter with a gorgeous washed rind. About eight years later, Veronica started to make some smaller, 4-inch cheeses, which in her inimitable way she called her "little dotes" – they are now known as "Milleens dotes".

Veronica shared her understanding of the potential of Irish Farmhouse cheese as an industry with many of the other cheese-making icons: Giana Ferguson, Jeffa Gill, Mary Burns, Olivia Goodwillie, Louis and Jane Grubb, Paddy Berridge, Anne Brodie. She recognised the need for education and organisation, and was instrumental in setting up CáIS, the Irish Farmhouse Cheesemakers Association.

Since those pioneering days, a whole generation of spirited cheesemakers have learned their craft and accumulated a wealth of knowledge on artisan cheese production. Their cheeses are enjoyed by lovers of good food both at home and abroad. Visiting travel and food writers seek out the cheeses and visit the farms, charmed by the passionate producers they encounter.

Many of the cheesemakers have become expert on the science of their product and have to contend with ever more stringent regulations, frequently disproportionate to the risk involved.

Randolph Hodgson of Neal's Yard Dairy in London is on record as saying that the Irish artisan producers have to contend with the most draconian legislation in Europe.

Many Irish cheeses have won top prizes at the British Cheese Awards, Eurotoque Awards of Excellence and Slow Food. The whole artisan food sector is gathering momentum: there are currently 320 speciality food and small business companies in Ireland with a combined turnover of €296 million. The Irish farmhouse cheesemakers have a turnover of approximately €7.5 million and have had an impact that far exceeds their size on the image of Irish food both at home and abroad.

For perfection, just buy the quantity of cheese you need for immediate consumption, or to be consumed within one or two days. Most cheese shops, though certainly not all, will be better equipped to store cheese properly than the average household. Few houses nowadays have a cool larder or pantry, not to mention a cheese cellar with high humidity. Fridges basically 'hold' cheese but they don't improve it in any way.

Storing cheese

Cheese should be stored in a cool larder or cupboard, but very fresh soft cheese should always be stored in the fridge.

Hard or semi-hard cheese needs high humidity or it will dry out. Wrap them individually in clean, damp teatowels and keep an eye on them if they are to be stored for more than a few days.

All other cheese should be wrapped individually in its own wrapping, in greaseproof paper or in tin foil. Cooleeney, Carrigbyrne Camembert or large Brie-type cheeses should be stored in their wooden boxes. Cling film is not good for wrapping cheese.

Blue cheese, particularly that without a thin rind, eg Cashel Blue, Crozier Blue and Roquefort, should be wrapped closely in silver or gold foil. Otherwise the blue mould (Penicillium Roquefortii) will travel into other cheeses and make them blue too.

Don't keep any cheese in a warm kitchen for long – soft cheese tends to liquefy and harder cheese sweat and become oily. Despite the fact that some cheese manufacturers recommend freezing, it is better not to freeze cheese unless as a stop-gap measure.

Accompaniments to cheese

Celery, grapes, tomato roses, and various other garnishes are often served with a selection of cheeses: otherwise, all one needs is fresh, crusty, home-made white bread or simple cheese biscuits.

A recent trend, particularly popular in Australia and the United States where there is in a new evolving farmstead cheese industry, is to serve a cheese course. A cheese plate with complementary nuts, dried fruit, relishes, perhaps a little salad and some crackers or flavoured breads is just delicious.

^Nuts – fresh walnuts, pecans, almonds, hazelnuts, macadamia or brazil nuts.

^Dried Fruit – plump dried Turkish figs, dried peaches or pears.

^Relishes – beetroot, ginger, tomato relish jalapeno, pimento.

^Membrillo or Quince cheese – delicious with Manchego or soft goats cheese.

^Honey – particularly good with blue cheese