Beating the Christmas logjam

This may be the silly season, but Darina Allen has some tips up her sleeve to make you festive feast a fiesta

Countdown to Christmas – A few days before the big day snatch a few quiet moments, make yourself a cup of coffee or hot chocolate, put your feet up and make a few detailed lists. I love to set up the crib first, to remind me of the raison d'être for the whole celebration and to get me into the true spirit of Christmas. Our grandchildren gather round to help, wide-eyed with wonder as they hear the story of Joseph and Mary and then place the little baby Jesus in his tiny crib. They love to help bring in the holly and decorate the Christmas tree. There's nothing coordinated about our decorations, all the jingles and baubles collected over the past three decades, each with its own little story, hang in a haphazard way. It's fun to include some edible decorations on the tree, even tiny children can help to make popcorn garlands with a darning needle and thread. Dolly mixtures or little jellies also work well and can alternate with the glittering tinsel on the tree.

Older children can help to make little star-shaped biscuits. We thread a narrow ribbon through the top and they can be dangled from the branches. Finally the little candle holders are clipped onto the branches and the tiny wax candles are lit. Memories of my childhood come flooding back, for me this moment has always been one of the most magical parts of Christmas. We play Christmas carols and the grandchildren sing Jingle Bells and Rudolf the red-nosed reindeer with gusto and delight – Christmas is truly here.

Back to the kitchen, if you haven't made the cake and pudding don't worry, there's still time! When the children were small I once made the cake on 23 December, iced it on Christmas Eve and it was one of the nicest cakes we ever had, crumbly and delicious. Hopefully the turkey or goose is ordered and the plum puddings are made by now, otherwise nip out to the Butlers Pantry or Avoca or a good food shop and buy the best you can find. This year we've made lots of tiny pud bowls, just enough for 2-4 not very hungry people. We've even more individual ones in espresso cups, which work really well and look adorable. They'll only take 20-30 minutes to cook through on Christmas Day. If plum pud is not your thing, how about a luscious chocolate yule log? Make pastry and mince pies and freeze.

Weigh up mulled wine spices and wrap in twists of cling film or greaseproof paper.

Herb and bread stuffing can be made ahead of time and frozen. Extra bread crumbs can be stored for the bread sauce. Cranberry Sauce can be made in minutes, but make it in advance – it will keep for weeks, maybe months.

One or two days ahead, make some smoked mackerel pate and refrigerate. Remember to buy some delicious crusty bread and pop a loaf or two into the freezer as a standby. Some homemade mayonnaise is also brilliant to have stashed in the fridge for turkey sambos.

Make the yule log, cover but don't roll up.

The day before you plan to eat – lay the table and decorate – lots of holly, party poppers and Christmas crackers. Prepare your chosen vegetables – celery and sprouts and potatoes perhaps. Toss the latter in extra virgin olive oil, put into a plastic bag, twist the end tightly and pop it in the fridge. The potatoes will keep perfectly and taste delicious. Just cover the vegetables with damp kitchen paper – no vegetables benefit either flavour-wise or nutritionally from being soaked in water overnight. In fact if the celery is cooked it will reheat perfectly.

If using prawns, cook in the shell, cool and refrigerate, they would make a delicious light supper if you decide to have paté for the main meal. Wash and dry the salad and make the dressing, (you'll need it to aid the digestion).

On Christmas Day – decide on the time of the meal. Weigh the turkey or goose, calculate the cooking time. Pop into the oven and relax. Roll up and decorate the Yule log.

Forty five minutes to one hour before the end of cooking time, put the potatoes on to roast. Put on the bread sauce (this can also be made ahead if you'd prefer). Make a little toast or a few crostini, top with smoked mackerel paté and dill, arrange on a plate. Chill wine or bubbly.

Just before serving, make the gravy, cook or reheat the vegetables. Pop the bird on your poshest serving dish and keep warm. Open a bottle of bubbly or Prosecco, relax and pass around the crostini, have a toast.

Make your way to the table, tuck in and enjoy and all the rest of you don't forget a hug for the cook and do all the washing up.

Merry Christmas to all our readers and may all your dreams come true in 2006.

Tags: