The art of 'chokes

Artichokes are best served simply with a bowl of melted butter. By Darina Allen

No garden should be without globe artichokes – sounds a bit esoteric but what other plant looks so exotic and tastes so divine. It is worth growing for the grey- green foliage alone.

The plants grow about four to five feet tall and spread five to six feet outwards. The deeply indented leaves provide a dramatic backdrop for a large flower arrangement. They are one of the first new season vegetables after the hungry gap in April and May.

We grow Purple Globe. This old variety, which has a superb flavour and a fleshy heart, is better than some of the new varieties. Gros Vert de Lâon is an excellent French variety grown for its huge hearts. Purple Violetto di Chioggia is my favourite Italian variety.

Globe Artichokes are one of a handful of foods that require a basic lesson when one encounters them for the first time. My favourite way to do them is to poach them simply in boiling salted acidulated water until a leaf at the base detaches easily when gently tugged.

I serve them simply with a little bowl of melted butter or a light Hollandaise sauce. Each person strips the leaves off one by one, dips the base of each into the sauce before scraping off the fleshy morsel with their teeth. When most of the leaves have been pulled off the heart, the choke (or emerging flower) needs to be scooped off the heart and discarded – then the hard- earned prize can be slowly enjoyed.

If you are fortunate enough to have an abundance of globe artichokes let some run to flower – the purple, thistle-like flowers make a truly exotic backdrop to a flower bed or herbaceous border. It is a must- have for both the gardener and the cook.

Globe artichokes & melted butter

Serves 6

6 globe artichokes

1.1l (2 pints) water

2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons (approx.) white wine vinegar

Melted Butter

170g (6oz) butter

freshly squeezed juice of 3 lemons (approx.)

I trim the base just before cooking so the artichokes will sit steadily on the plate. Rub the cut end with lemon juice or vinegar to prevent discolouring. Have a large saucepan of boiling water ready, add two teaspoons of vinegar and two teaspoons of salt to every two pints of water, pop in the artichokes and bring the water back to the boil. Simmer steadily for about 25 minutes. After about 20 minutes tug one of the larger leaves at the base. If it comes away easily, remove and drain upside down on a plate. While they are cooking simply melt the butter and add lemon juice to taste.

Put each warm artichoke onto a hot serving plate, serve the sauce or melted butter in a little bowl beside it. Artichokes are eaten with your fingers, so provide a finger bowl.